Brett & Rachel's European Vacation 2008
Paris
09.26.08 - 09.29.08
Paris is divided into sections called arrondissementes which made it easier to find our way around. Most famous sites are located in the Latin Quarter, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5G43NqMd4_I Put Eiffel twinkle video link HERE A few practical terms: 09.29.08 - 09.30.08 As our bus rolled along the hilly terrain, Kristin explained about the vineyards we saw everywhere. Amazingly, the same grapes are grown on all the hillsides. But, the wines produced will be very different depending on their growing location - top, middle or bottom of the hill. This is due to the variations of the terrior, the soil compositions and drainage, and their exposition to the sun, rains, the soil. The wines of The grapes reflect the terrior, and then the winemaker takes over to alter flavors as he sees fit. The cellars are kept very cold, important for natural aging of the wines. Every village produces its own wine. And the area around Beaune has produced wine since 300 AD. The Catholic church took over wine-making during the Middle Ages, so you'll find wineries & hotels in restored monasteries.
a medieval area with historic
architecture and an aura that transports you back in time.
The area was named for the language you would have
heard on these streets in the Middle Ages. Students of Sorbonne Université (below) built in 1150, spoke Latin - the language of educated men. We walked by the Sorbonne as we left the Cluny.
Paris doesn't feel like a big city. There are lots of short, narrow streets with apartment buildings, cafés, pharmacy, grocery - everything a Parisian needs is located conveniently on one's own street. And, with efficient public transportation, there's no need for a car here. It's a pedestrian paradise.
The French eat long and well.
Endless hours spent talking or reading at out-door cafés are the norm. Relaxed lunches. 3-hour dinners. Restaurants are crowded by 8:30pm and still busy by 10. You are expected to linger over your coffee and conversation… ahh, heaven. Tipping is minimal. Waitstaff do not give better service for a larger tip. They are already paid well and give the same service, no matter if it's for coffee or for a meal.
In Montmarte, artists' square Place du Terte is a full city block of open space with 149 stalls for an artist to set up. Two artists share each space, work part-time, a total of 298 portraitists, caricaturists & painters offering their work for sale in in the large open air studio. All are unknown artists, but you never know who will be famous tomorrow.
Le Métropolitain de Paris, aka the Métro, a maze of subway trains will get you around in no time. Be ready to get on and off quickly - doors on Le Métro snap shut fast!!
Shop owners have their own niche and are very proud of their creations. Nothing is comparable to French breads. Pop into a boulangerie for a wide selection. Patisseries have delectable pastries and desserts. Need cheese? Fromageries can offer 400+ choices from different regions. Pick up a nice wine, fresh fruit... you're never far from a grassy park, garden or bench for a delightful picnic.
At our first group dinner, one brave tour buddy, Dwight, ordered escargot for hors d'oeuvres. (We got salad.) There were plenty of new things to try - but I couldn't manage snails. Kir became an instant favorite drink with all of us that night. This yummy apéritif is made with creme de cassis (black currant liqueur) & white wine.
6 sec very blue
Napoléon Bonaparte... you'll
be seeing a lot of this guy's influence on Paris... the monuments, museums, the very streets. He is credited with getting France back on
its feet after the French Revolution of 1789. He was the the first one to reshape this magnificent city that he loved so much.
Bridges along the Seine River connect the river's Right Bank (Rive Droit) & Left (Rive Gauche.) The oldest bridge, Pont-Neuf, above, was built in 1697. It links to Ile de la Cité, the island where Paris began. Below is one of the nymphs from Pont Alexandre III made of hammered copper and gilt-bronze. Each one of the bridges is completely different from the others &
all were built in different centuries as the city grew.
We came upon a violinist in one of the Métro tunnels. You could hear her music before you saw her. Kristin told us that musicians must audition to receive permits to perform in the Métro. But, street musicians have no permits and may be moved along by the police. One group on the steps at Sacre-Coeur were playing "I'd Like to Teach the World to Sing" - in English.
Point Zero plaque (above) is just outside the doors of Notre-Dame. It marks the place where Paris began as a city. Stand on this spot... tradition goes, and you'll someday return to Paris. Brett and I stood right on top and have the picture of proof for the vacation powers that be - not taking any chances.
Gargoyles are the protectors
of the people from evil spirits. This medieval superstition has carried on through the centuries with these funny, scary creatures looking down from walls & rooftops. Most
of these guys have been on alert since the 12th century. Fun as that idea may be, they are actually rainspouts to keep rainwater flowing away from the walls. I LOVE gargoyles & was excited with each one I could spy.
While doing research for our trip, food was an interest I took seriously. Crêpes!! They are a classic French food and they make me happy. Luckily, all over Paris there are street vendor stalls serving cheap crepes made to order. You get it fresh, hot, yummy. Who knew there were hearty, savory crêpes with “good for you” stuff in them like veggies and meats? Not me. I had one goal in mind for this particular food type - dessert crêpes. (Who can eat just one?) And, let me add, there are many, many fillings to choose from!! Below is one with Nutella and bananas.
Next...croissants! Take notes.
Who serves the best? They are all wonderful, as long as you get the right kind. Here's the scoop. There are 2 kinds of croissants, but only one is the heavenly treat you're seeking. Croissant au beurre - soft, fluffy, flaky, buttery. They are elongated, whereas its' lesser cousin has a tight, curled in crescent shape.
While at the d'Orsay Museum, there was a restoration project on display. The painting from 1855 was Gustave Courbet's The Painter's Studio. It looks so fascinating, but I'm not sure what the process entails. But, what a feeling of priviledge it must be to be restoring a priceless, irreplaceable work of art. Below is a close up.
Smart Cars were all over.
But, the popular mode of city transportation is the vespa = means wasp. Motorbikes are "buzzing" everywhere, with no posted speed limits. Drivers just decide whatever feels safe to them. Vehicles only have to miss pedestrians by 3 metres.
Some culture gaps... Parisians are reserved and formal upon first meeting. Americans project a more casual and familiar attitude even with strangers. With these opposing cultural differences, it's easy to see why each culture would think the other is quite rude.
Hugging. Most European cultures (not just the French) are quite uncomfortable with hugs from new acquaintances, which are reserved only for family and close friends.
One more thing is our parents told us it's not polite to talk politics in public. But, Parisians love a lively exchange of political views - at any time, with anyone. Keeping in mind the cultural differences we encounter as we travel are unique learning experiences. All the differences are part of the charm and fun.
Unfortunately, Parisians smoke like chimneys. Walking on a sidewalk, suddenly you'd be in a cloud of smoke. What a culture shock to see so many smokers (old & young.) It became obvious just how much smoking has really decreased in the U.S. Yay!
the Parc du Champs de Mars. At the other end of this huge grassy park is a monument (above) to inspire world peace. It was inaugurated in 2000 and called Le Mur de La Paix - The Peace Wall. The word "peace" is written in 32 languages and 18 alphabets.
During the Italian Renaissance, in 1506, Leonardo da Vinci painted the Mona Lisa. This wasn't a well-known painting until 1867 (360 years later) when an article was written about her feminine mystique. The attention she attracted is now history. Mona became the most famous painting in the world. In French, she is know as La Joconde.
The Louvre began as a fortress in 1190. Above is the model on display. On the museum's lowest level, the old moat is excavated and can be seen. It was the royal palace for 600 years and was transformed with expansions & reconstructions. Each new King or Emperor added galleries, pavilions, wings, facades and their art collection expanded as the space grew. In 1783, when the art collection took over entirely, the Louvre was opened for the public. In one place, you are able to enjoy artworks by the masters. The Louvre displays and conserves artworks of past civilizations and the best the world has ever seen.
Bonjour = Greet shop owners right as you enter the door. (For good measure, just greet everyone everywhere.)
Santi = Cheers!
Sortie = Exit. Don't forget the name of the Métro exit you will need.
W.C. = Water Closet, the restroom. Look for a WC
sign to locate a public toilet. It costs €1 or less to use. Or, go to a café, order espresso for €.80 and use the WC for free. (good deal)
une carafe d'eau = a carafe of tap water, it's good & it's free. l'eau gazeuse = sparkling water, costs more than you'd think.
Beaune
terrior
Virginia Beach,
Virginia
This is a tale of two honeys on a mission to explore new worlds, experience old civilizations
and to boldly go where we have not gone before. We anticipated ancient architecture...
beautiful landscapes... quaint villages... enchanting people... famous artworks... gastronomical delights... embracing the languages and quirks of foreign cultures. It was all that and so much more! I am your guide for this adventure.
Please extinguish all smoking materials. Away we GO! ~ Rachel
Pre-Tour Sightseeing
We arrived in the morning on Friday giving us 1 1/2 days to explore some of the sites not listed on
the group itinerary. The train from the airport delivered us into the Latin Quarter, the oldest section
of the city with ancient buildings and cobbled roads nestled along the
First, on the agenda is the Musée National du Moyen Âge with an immense collection of medieval
artifacts from the Middle Ages. It's most famous piece is a tapestry The Lady and the Unicorn. This
15th c. mansion was built as an abbey over top ruins of a Roman bath from 200 A.D. that you can
visit on the lowest level. (below-sculpture, stained glass, statuary, carving on a choir stall, Roman
bath ruins, armor helmet, tapestry.)
Our first evening in
we should kiss at every famous site. How romantic! We started off with 2 kisses under the Eiffel
The night was chilly - to warm up, we ate fresh, hot crepes with Nutella & whipped cream. Mmm :)
Brett is in front of a fromagerie, a shop for cheese.
That's a lot of cheese! (Hey-there's a French poodle.)
We had a late dinner around the corner
from the Eiffel Tower, Le Terrasse, where
the lamb curry & braised chicken were
divine. The glass walls were great for
people watching at the sidewalk tables.
The people next to us had a doggie under
the table (we didn't know it until they
left.) European dogs are well-behaved &
there are LOTS of them. Restaurants are
still crowded at 10pm. Parisians like to
eat long and well. Ooo-La-La. Already,
we were enchanted with Paris. It's the
first night, a world away from home, and
the adventure has only begun!
Meeting up with Rick Steves' Europe through the Back Door tour group
The morning air was invigorating as we st
rolled along Parisian streets to Jean Millet for breakfast ~ the best croissants in Paris. Mmm. Our tour group meeting was set for 4pm, so we still had time to explore more of Paris on our own. We visited the famous Rue Cler, a street market with produce trucked in daily, fresh from the farms. People grocery shop daily because kitchens are small with little storage.
of neighborhood streets, we found an artists' square called Place du Terte, and saw a few sites from the French film Amelie.
Amelie & the grocery
where she worked
Montmartre with Sacré-Coeur on top
Above, Ruby on steps of Sacré-Coeur
Staying to the Seine's Right Bank, we saw the Champs-Elysées (right) a 10-lane boulevard of splendor and luxurious shops, restaurants, high-end auto showrooms and monuments. At
one end of this boulevard is the Arc de Tríomphe (below.) The boulevard and arch were designed with grandeur for the parade of imperial armies returning from victory.
Napoléon's triumphal arch is dedicated
to the glory of his imperial armies.
He died, in exile, before it could be
completed.
Sheltered underneath is France's Tomb
of the Unknown Soldier in patriotic
reverence.
There is no wasted space in Parisian hotels-space is premium. Our room was small, but clean and bright; halls and stairways were
narrow and windy; the elevator could barely squeeze the two of
us. And, we loved it. It was very comfy. In the hotel dining room (charmingly medieval,) our group shared brief intros before Kristin,
our guide (right,) led our group on a walk to introduce us into Parisian
life. Then, we enjoyed a wonderful dinner where Kristin introduced us
to our immediate new fave drink - Kir. We ate with Dwight and Nancy
who've traveled on several
in for a great time. After dessert, it was time for the Seine cruise on the
Bateau Mouche. It was magical seeing all the monuments and buildings
lit up and reflecting off the water.
Cruising the Seine...
Marylou, left Nancy & Dwight, Rachel & Brett, below
A fab continental breakfast, then, we were off to the oldest section, the heart, of
are depictions of 1,113 Biblical scenes from Creation to the end of the world. For people who couldn't read,
the art of the windows told the stories to them. Amazingly, this church was built in only 5 years. I could
never imagine anything so beautiful as this chapel of spectacular color.
Both, Notre-Dame Cathedral and Sainte Chapelle, sit on an island, the Ile de la Cité, in the middle of the
Seine
the city, begun in 1163 and completed in 1345. It's the metropolitan
attended in the nave, below right
grace and compassion of
glass rose window, gargoyles and chimera (waterspouts and protectors,) its flying buttresses along the
exterior to support the walls, and in 1831, the bell and bell tower were featured in a novel, Victor Hugo's
The Hunchback of Notre Dame. Hugo wanted to bring attention to the cathedral and how it had fallen into disrepair. Because of the popularity of the book, Notre-Dame was restored, not demolished.
Pietà sculpture on the altar Flying buttresses brace the very tall walls.
Nicolas Coustou, 1728
We left the island, crossed the bridge and came upon les bouquinistes, the book sellers. Along the
quay of the Seine are green metal stalls that have
all kinds of old and new books, drawings, prints
& souveniers for sale. Hungry, we continued into
the
bohemian flare, late nights and sleepy mornings
of an ethnic melting pot
shops, cinemas, music clubs. For centuries, this
area has been the social watering hole of great
French writers and scholars, philosophers and
poets - stimulating conversations with Voltaire,
Satre, Zola, and Hugo.
For lunch, the group split up, free to select from many international eateries, their owners in doorways inviting us to enter and eat. This is one of the streets (below) at the traditional core of the
eateries, each with a unique decor and ethnic menu. These buildings have been here for centuries, built
with their willy nilly construction of medieval times and any renovations can't hide that kind of charm.
We chose a tiny Moroccan place. Our lunch was delicious; the authentic décor was awesome. Walls were covered in tapestries... carved wooden table...the stews were served in tureens...music, lanterns and candles... This wasn't a "theme" restaurant - it was a Moroccan experience.
Talking about all that we’d seen, so far,
the cultural experiences in Paris during the last 800 years - the changes and progress, the uprisings and
revolutions, daily life with its quirks, hardships and pleasures. Kristin is a gem!
Here is one of many public drinking fountains (left) located
throughout
and the water is crystal clear and tasty. People stop by, fill
up their water bottles and happily continue on their way.
Behind this particular fountain is the famous Shakespeare
& Co. bookstore.
"Un café, s'il vous plaît" ~ A cup of coffee, please.
A note about coffee... coffee began here & there are rules to
follow. Restaurant etiquette dictates:
Cáfe noir is espresso with a few tubes
of sugar on your saucer; you can drink
it any time, day or night. But, only have
it with food at breakfast. Cáfe au lait
(add steamed milk) & cappuccino (add
steamed-foamed milk & a sprinkle of
cinnamon) are breakfast drinks only.
No respectable European drinks
cappuccino after 10am. If you order
either as an after-dinner treat, the
waiter will look at you with dismay
(but, will do his best to fill your milky
order.) At dinner, coffee with your dessert does not make sense to the French, so you will not be served
your coffee until you've finished dessert. I don't like coffee :) so I could just enjoy some chocolat chaud
(hot chocolate) any old time.
structure remains, incuding the vaulted glass roof. The museum's art works date from 1848 to 1915, but
best known for its extensive collection of Impressionist masterpieces by such painters as Monet, Degas, Renoir, Cézanne, Van Gogh. Every time I turned a corner, there was another world famous painting. How cool to actually see the paintings I'd studied in art History class.
Below, Luncheon on the Grass Above, Small Dancer, Aged 14 Bronze
Édouard Manet, 1863 (French) Edgar Degas, 1881 (French)
One of 250 in the Water Lilies series Arrangement in Grey and Black: The Artist's Mother
Claude Monet, 1906 (French) (aka Whistler'sMother) James Whistler, 1871 (American)
Irises, close-up detail
Vincent Van Gogh, 1890 (Dutch)
After we returned to the hotel,
living room getting better acquainted with some tour buddies.
I took a nap and joined them later. The cozy self-service bar
was put to good use. We settled in for the night, excited to tour
the Louvre in the morning.
Checked out of the Hotel Duquesne and met our bus driver, Rene
(right) from
guide, Christina (below) whose French-accented English was delightful.
She led us through the museum using a "whisper system," speaking into
a microphone while we each had headphones, pointing out the highlights
and fascinating details of the world’s most precious paintings, sculpture,
drawings, objets d'art. Mona and
Venus were there. Leonardo daVinci's Mona Lisa was mobbed with
such a large crowd, Dwight & Mike used zooms to get a close-up
picture over the crowds' heads. It's only 31" x 21" in size - quite a
surprise! So... walking along & we come to statues by Michelangelo's
own hands... and paintings by Raphael. It's just craziness - I was plain
giddy! There are antiquities of Greek, Roman, Oriental, Egyptian and
Etruscan cultures that just took my breath away! We had to buy a
museum book to see & learn about all that we missed.
The glass pyramids designate the main entrance area. It's just so exciting to be there!
Venus de Milo, marble 130-100 B.C. (Greek) 6' 8" tall
Liberty Leading the People
Eugene Delacroix, 1830 (French)
Rebellious Slave Unfinished
Michelangelo, 1513 (Italian)
It may be unfinished if Michelangelo felt
he could not attain his ideal.
The Coronation of Napoleon
Jacques-Louis David, 1807 (French)
Measures 20' 4" x 32'
How long did it take to paint this one?
This gallery (below) has an unbelievable painted ceiling. I was frustrated having to crane my neck, one way, then another, as most of the ceiling's paintings are meant to be viewed coming from the opposite direction. So... I decided to walk backwards to make it easier and Beaune is the
Below, Galerie d'Apollon is an amazing gallery created over a period of almost 200 years, and dozens of French artists from Le Brun to Delacroix contributedby to its decoration. The walls and ceiling contain 41 paintings, 118 sculpted figures and 28 tapestries. Along both walls, the framed portraits of artists and sovereigns are not paintings. They are Gobelins tapestries woven in 1854-1863. Amazing!! And this room showcases a collection of the Crown Jewels of France.
After lunch at the museum, it was time to say "Au revoir,
Destination.....Beaune, in the
Leaving 
we roll into the beautiful French countryside, passing castles, pastures & vineyards en route to the Burgundy region of France, famous for its wine, beef and
Beef + wine = Boeuf Bourguignon
Beaune (pronounced 'bone' in a French accent) is where life centers around the production & consumption of the prestigious, expensive Côte d'Or wines.
Pictures used throughout this site are our own and my tour-mates. And, some are from the internet because, sometimes we were so
absorbed in the moment, we forgot to take the picture. Or, if we did, the picture wasn't very good. So, since I want to remember and
share as much as possible, I took liberties and used the best of the pictures from other travelers' stashes.
To those whose pictures I selected: THANK YOU for helping me re-create our memories! ~ Rachel
